Nicaragua Passage

A very brief post to say that we made it through Nicaragua. It was rough at times, with several tranques (roadblocks). Most of the tranques had little interest in turistas, though, and allowed us passage or route-around within minutes. We were warned that Jinotepe was very dangerous, though.

After several thwarted attempts to push on around Jinotepe to Rivas from the Las Esquinas area, we were very fortunate to come across Hacienda San Pedro in San Marcos, Nicaragua. This meant, oddly enough, that we traveled from San Marcos (de Colón, in Honduras) to San Marcos (in Nicaragua) in one day. The hacienda was an excellent find, though, with stout walls, gorgeous grounds, comfortable rooms, and -- as verified by our traveling companion, Steve -- the coldest beer in Nicaragua. (The beer was, indeed, quite cold, and quite tasty!)  We were welcomed in, provided safe refuge, fed, and given slumber, by the good Doctor and his granddaughter. Many, many thanks to them for their aid after a frustrating -- and potentially dangerous -- day.

Even better: a group from Gildan (think t-shirts) was on-site at the time. After over-hearing some talk about the tranques, I spoke with them and was referred to their regional head of security, Molesto, who sent me a map of the route their trucks take to avoid tranques. Better yet, he then offered to allow us to follow their trucks at 9 a.m. the next morning. And even better, he then offered to set up a guide to lead us past the dangerous ("super-peligroso", according to one local) tranques in Jinotepe, and another guide to lead us around Rivas, which is known to have impassable tranques.

We took him up on this marvelous offer, departing this morning just after 7:30. The drive took us along several back-roads, dirt, and otherwise, but we saw nary a tranque, and we made it to be border quickly. All four of us wholeheartedly agreed that it was the best $50 we've ever spent.

For those interested in our path, here's the GPX.

Synopsis:

1. We crossed into Nicaragua at El Espino with no problems (now that we had our solicitud).
2. First tranque was at Estelí. We wove out way through the semi trucks to the front, where we were stopped by men wearing masks and toting homemade firework launchers. After learning we were just tourists on motorcycles, they had us park to the side and said they would give us a route around the blocked section of highway. After a few minutes, they looked through our panniers to ensure we weren't armed, then gave us directions around the tranque. The route around was several miles along a very rough, bumpy road, but we had no issues following it to the highway.
3. From there, only smooth highways and beautiful ambience for many, many miles. We passed many gas stations that were closed. The few that were open tended to have extremely long lines.
4. We found an open and nearly vacant gas station at Malpaisillo.
5. Avoided Leon by heading south out of Malpaisillo through La Paz and El Tamarindo.
6. Tranque at La Paz. After a few questions, they let us through (no route-around).
7. Tranque at El Tamarindo. Again, after a few questions, we passed right through (no route-around).
8. Smooth cruising again for miles until well past Managua.
9. Tranque at Las Esquinas. No questions, just followed the other cars to the route-around. Very muddy, rutted. Difficult passage for heavy bikes, but we got through. Learned here that Jinotepe was to be avoided (very dangerous). Had problems following the directions given to avoid Jinotepe. After a couple tries, decided to call it a day.
10. Overnight stay at Hacienda San Pedro. Here, we met the local folks who offered a guide around the Jinotepe and Rivas tranques.
11. Met guide (private security) who led us through the backroads from San Marcos to El Rosario.
12. Left guide and drove unmolested from El Rosario to Belen.
13. Met second guide (local) at Belen, who guided us around the north part of Rivas, into its center, and out the southeast side. 
14. Left the guide there and proceeded to the border with no issues.

The situation changes daily, but this is how we made it through. Contact me directly for more information. I'll respond as quickly as possible, understanding that this is very time-sensitive information.